20 A&P,28Aaker,
D.,98Abercrombie&Fitch,64enture,30–1ActionforCorporateountability,253activism anti-globalization,70,244,266–7,280o,59,212consumer,1,164,239–66feminist,43graffiti,41protestmovement,2,52,72,205,245Adidas,26,160,164advertisingcosts,17–20,23,74,81,91false,63–4recognition,53–5subvertisement,41pornographyin,48–51,62,88AIDS,45,52,55,62,65,211AirFrance,62Altadis,59AmericanEagleOutfitters,64AmericanFederationofTelevisionandRadioArtists(AFRA),257americanization,266,274–8AmericanPetroleumInstitute,256Angelini,
G.,46anorexia,45–6anization,47puters,30,33Armani,27,82,101–2,135,150ArthurAndersen,30–1,164 Artz,
E.,19,151ATTAC,258,260,262Aubade,100Audi,69,100,170,191AvenirPublicité,49Avon,62Axa,62 Bally,35,66,100,103,113,115–16,185,196 Banania,89–91BancoSabadell,95banking,25,30,95,245o,
A.,270Barthes,
R.,41,65Barton,
B.,97BBC,231aria,
J.M.R.,45behaviorism,205–20Bell,
D.,277ton,48,52–5,59–60,87,119,144, 202ton,
L.,53,59Berluti,65Berluti,
O.,65Bernard-Becharie,
J.-F.,233Bernstein,
D.,98BMW,136,210,275BodyShop,45–6,119,257Boisvert,
Y.,203boycotts,41,54,203,240,251–60 animalexperimentation,254Danone,258Esso,256–8GeneralElectric,253 284 INDEX 285 Nestlé,252–5Nike,255–8Procter&Gamble,257–8Shell,253–4Boycott,
C.,252brandsarroganceof,42,56,61,63,66birthof,143–5conceptof,11–12evolution,89–91,128–30,138–64,235humanitarian,60–2,223,262lifecycleof,138–65,178lifestyle,86,150–1maturity,155–6multiculturalism,82–3,278–9names,28–31notoriety,2,49,152,159,223plagiarism,64relativity,91responsibility,40,44,58,67,220andurbanenvironment,57,81–2,127,161brandfetishism,1Bravo,
R.M.,154Brecht,
B.,221,238Bridgestone,30,244BritishAdvertisingStandardsAuthority,52BritishAnti-ApartheidMovement,253BritishAnti-VivisectionAssociation,254Bulgari,34,38,141,150Burberry,36,66,69,154Bush,PresidentG.W.Jr.,256 CalvinKlein,41,44,50,60,113–14Capitalmagazine,63Cavalier,
G.,57Céline,66CesarePiaciotti,50CGTlaborfederation,258Chanel,29,35,149,156,180,187CharlesJourdan,156ChristianDior,29,50,66,82,127ChurchofEngland,253Cipramil,232ClaytonAct(1914),240Coca-Cola,28,38–40,100,133,150,164, 194,222–3Codol,
J.-P.,126CollegiateDictionary,94,133Columbus,
C.,munication influenceof,78–9strategy,41–2,146 chains,176–7CommunistParty(France),258ConfédérationPaysanneagriculturalgroup, 261ConsumerAction,244ConsumerAdvisoryCouncil(CAC), 242–3,245ConsumerFederationofAmerica,245–6ConsumerProductSafetyCommission, 243ConsumerUnion,the,240CorteIngles,157Courtes,
J.,110Coveri,51CrazyEddie,229CreativeBusinessconsultingfirm,96,102, 106,112CréditdeNord,96Crider,Reverend,
T.,255Crossair,seeSwissair Dahl,
S.,52Dagnaud,
M.,231Dannon,14,234,269Danone,41,194,258–9seealsodeGivenchy,
H.J.T.,94deSaussure,
F.,85,104,109DesignersAgainstAddiction,47deSole,
D.,160Diageo,20Diesel,49,52,101Dillon,
K.,46Disney,28,151DKNY,150Dolce&Gabbana,101,150Dollar,
D.,270DowChemical,62Drillech,
M.,259DroptheDebtcampaign,260Ducati,39,69,100DukeEnergy,226 Dannon Elf,49Ellemagazine,50Enron,164Eram,69Ericsson,145Erikson,
E.H.,126Eskenazi,
M.,95–6Esso,256–7ethics,seemoralityEuropeanUnion,83Évian,76–
7 286 INDEX Exte,50 FederalCommunicationsCommission,243–
4 Fendi,156Ferrari,35,39,69,100Ferré,
G.,51Festinger,L,206Fiat,35Floch,
J.-M.,33,96,102–28Ford,30,210,241,244Ford,Tom,50,160,193Fortuna,59France,62Frankfurt,
L.,154FrenchAdvertisingVerificationBureau (BVP),51FrenchConnection,50Friedman,
M.,254FriendsoftheEarth,256,261Fukuyama,
F.,277 Galbraith,
J.K.,241,243GaleriesLafayette,148,157Gap,24,28,223,272Gates,
W.,144Gaultier,
J.P.,69GayandLesbianAllianceAgainstDefama- tion,257GazdeFrance,37GeneralElectric,241,253GeneralMotors,79,243Gerstner,
L.,169Gigli,
R.,51Gilette,157–8Giuliani,
R.,51Givenchy,94–5GlobalAllianceforWorkersandCommu- nities(GAWC),271–2globalization,1–2,12,21,59,161–
2, 265–83criticized,269–70opponentsof,42,73,244seealsoInternationalForumonGlobalizationGlobalTradeWatch,260,272Goizeta,R,222Goldsmith,
J.,269GreenParty(France),258Greimas,
A.J.,102,110,121i,29,35,39,50,65-6,139–40,160,193 HäagenDazs,30Hegel,
G.W.F.,43HeraldTribune,266Hermès,26–7,39,64,130,141–2,170“heroinchic”,47HewlettPackard,39,101Hugo,
V.,70Huntington,
S.,277 IBM,33,169identityprism,99–103IndustrialRevolution,12,16,278INFACT,253Inglehart,ProfessorR.,277InternationalForumonGlobalization,260,69,278 Jackson,ReverendJ.,255Jacobs,
M.,153Jaguar,34–5JCPenney,180Johnson,
S.,93,128JohnsonWax,13,18–19,158,190 Kapferer,
J.-N.,99–103Kennedy,PresidentJ.F.,241–5,273Kennedy,SenatorE.,253hCole,60,65Klein,
N.,203,256,271 criticism,1–3,12,20,24,42,59,70–2,265–6inagreementwith,3,14,42,70,72,97,215,265praise,1,3,56,164,231,265seealsoNoLogoKmart,226Kodak,157Kraay,A,270KraftFoods,23Kroc,
R.,144Kubrick,
S.,79Kyotoords,256 Lacoste,172Lavazza,50Leclerc,252LeeJeans,50LePrintemps,149Levi’s,62,100Lightware,69L’Institutnationaldelaconsommation,246Lipovetsky,
G.,44,86,279LiseCharmel,144 INDEX 287 Loewe,35,106–7,129,150logo meaningof,31–2functionof,32–6logomania,38–9,65managing,36–8L’Oréal,62,127LouisVuitton,24,39,66,89,150,152–4,187Lustiger,CardinalJ.-
M.,68 McDonald’s,35–6,41,144,225,265MarcelRochas,29Marelli,
M.,159Margulies,
W.P.,98Marks&Spencer,148Marlboro,20,150“MarlboroFriday”,20iaMandelli,150Marx,
K.,277Maslow,
A.H.,84a-Cola,107,237MédecinsSansFrontières,61Menkes,
S.,135MercedesBenz,35,171Merz,
A.,51Michelen,34,149Microsoft,30,144,241,244MiniCooper,67,192Missoni,100,152Mollison,
J.,55Montaigne,
M.,265,268,277–8Morris,
P.,20Moschino,60Moss,
K.,44,69,113Muller,
M.,252 Nader,
R.,79,239,243NationalAssociationofBulkTruckers (ANCAI),256Nault,Fr.J.-
C.,283Nescafé,13,80,235;seealsoNestléNestlé,14,17–18,158,252–7NewYorkStockExchange,21NewYorkTimes,74Nicoli,
M.-J.,247Nike,65,271 boycott,255–8munication,26–7,32–3criticism,59–60,71–2,164,223slogan,40,107Nokia,39,145–7NoLogo,205,223–4,256,271 craze,2–3,12,87criticized,1–2,12,42,71,265–6inagreementwith,3,14,42,56,164,215,231,265noveltyeffect,18,74–5,129,155seealsoKlein,
N. Observatoiredel’éthique,261OgilvyandMatheragency,253Ombudsmen,248Opel,100OperationPush,268Opinel,100Orange,anicfood,23,80,162ORGECO,247OrientExpress,159Ortega,
A.,149 Pachtner,
K.,244PacoRabanne,128Pampers,155Panorama(Italy),69Paris,archbishopof,seeLustigerParis–Dakarrally,280Pastis,51,148Pastoureau,
M.,129PeoplefortheEthicalTreatmentof Animals(PETA),257Pepsi-Cola,61,133,223Perec,
G.,138Perrier,28,164,225Peugeot,35,158–9,230PianoPianoDolceCarlotta,51Pirelli,38,52,152Ponticus,
E.,283postmodernism,61,85,203,282Poulain,34Prada,144,176,192Procter&Gamble(P&G),19,62,151, 158,257–8Propp,
V.,121PublicCitizen,244–7,262PublicInterestResearchGroup,244Puma,160purchasingdecision,25,214–
5 RalphLauren,26,35,151Reebok,65RemyMartin,91Renault,17,34–5,186Revel,
J.-F.,270Ricardo,
D.,268 288 INDEX Richardson,
T.,137Rimbaud,
A.,205,209,220Rinaldi,
M.,46Rockefeller,
J.D.,241Roddick,
A.,257Rodriguez,
N.,107Rolls-Royce,34 SaksFifthAvenuestore,13–15SalvatoreFerragamo,37,64,78,108,112, 141–2,150SandersPierce,
C.,32–3SaraLee,147Schlesinger,
L.,257Schwebel,
F.,103,112ScreenActorsGuild(SAG),257Sega,65Séguéla,
J.,98semiotics,32,93,102–28,168,187,197–8Semprini,
A.,118–21Séphora,149September11,60,139,190,277Shakespeare,
W.,31Shell,35–6,62,91,253–4ShermanAntitrustAct(1890),240Shiseido,62shopaholism,232ShoppingforaBetterWorld,261Sisley,50,136–7SocialistParty(France),258Sony,30,40Sorolla,
J.,274SpanishRoyalAcademy,267StandardOil,241StanfordUniversity,232Starbucks,23StiftungWarentest,248stockmarket,21,30,222;seealsoNew YorkStockExchangeSuchard,100Suze,148SVTI,231Swatch,186Swish,51Swissair,116–17 Tap,
P.,126Terry,
M.,253Thiesse,
A.-M.,278Timberland,62 Toblerone,39,100Todt,100TommyHilfiger,35,154Toscani,
O.,48,52,55tradefairs,66Turlington,
C.,113 UBS,159UNESCO,62Ungaro,50,150Unilever,19UnioneNazionaleConsumatori(UNC), 247Unionfédéraledesconsummateurs(UFC), 247UnionofConsumerAssociations(AgV), 247–8UnitedNations,47,254 Unicef,61UnitedStudentsAgainstSweatshops,260, 272urbanization,58,81–2 seealsobrandandurbanenvironmentUSCongress,16,241–
6 Valrhona,22Vendre,230Versace,150VivendiUniversal,20Volkswagen,52,67–8,192Volvo,170,187vonClausewitz,
K.,165,189,198 WarrenSupremeCourt,241Weber,
M.,277Weil,
S.,281Weston,51WorldHealthOrganisation,252–3WorldSocialForum,260WorldTradeOrganisation(WTO),244, 260WorldValuesSurvey(WVS),277 Yamaha,147YvesSaintLaurent,35,49–52,150 Zara,69,144,149,187,195Zeitz,
J.,160Zola,
E.,11–12 ProLogo Logos,products,andadvertisingmaterialforbrandsillustrating someoficsdealtwithinthebook
1 Thepowerofcalligraphy 1)Coca-ColaintertwinedLandC ca-C©Co ola©Oriani&Orione–photogroup 2)Bulgari’spointed“U”
2 ©Jaguar Tridimensionalemblems 3)The“Leaper,”thehoodornamentusedoncertainJaguarmodels,whichremainsanimportantpartofthebrand’sidentityandistheinspirationforthecurrenttwo-dimensionallogo 5)TheRenaultlozengeisarareexampleofarecentlogoin3D 4)TheMichelinlogo,consideredtheworld’sbestknown
3 ©Michelin©Renault Logomania Astrendsfluctuate,logo-coveredmaterialsebackintofashion. 6)ThefamousBally“BusyB”,reproducedwithpermissionofSolveSundsbø,photographer
4 ©Bally Logomania(II) 7)AtChristianDior,thereturnofthemongrammedfabric,inanupdatedversion
5 ©ChristianDior,NickKnight Evolutionoflogos Aconstantsearchforfineadjustment,appropriatenesstocurrenttastes,andmodernization,whileendeavoringnottoweakenawarenessofthebrand. 1900 1904 1909 1929 1948 1955 1961 1971 1995 8)Themorethancentury-oldhistoryofoneofthemostfamiliarlogos,thefamousShell“Pecten”withitsdistinctiveyellowandredcolor
6 1999 Evolutionoflogos(II) Thenewlogosareclearer,simpler,andmoremodern–inshort,amoreclassicalesthetic. Old New ©Lanvin ©Burberry 9)Lanvin’s10)Burberry’s11)Lancel’s
7 ©Lancel Avirtualimageofwomen Thecanonsofbeautyespousedbythefashionworldpromoteafigurethatisfarremovedfromthemorphologyoftoday’swomen.Fortunately,brandslikeTheBodyShop,arecounteractingthistrendandpromotevaluesrelatedtonaturality.YoucanseetheRubydollpresentedastheanti-Barbiewiththeslogan:“Thereare3billionwomenintheworldandonlymodels.” 12)CartoonbyMartinMoralesfirstpublishedinabc,March18,1999 ©TheBodyShopInternational©TheBodyShopInternational 13)TheBodyShop 14)TheBodyShop’s“Rubydoll”
8 Provocation 15)CoverpagefromElleSpain(May1998)showingwhathaseanannualthemeeveryMay
9 ©ElleEspana Provocation(II) 16)AdvertisingfromtheItalianfirmDieselwhichattheoutsetbaseditsbrandidentityonprovocation 10 ©Diesel Provocation(III) 17)ForUngaro,superb-qualityphotos–unfortunatelyusingstrongprovocationwithsexualconnotations–topromotetheinestimablecreativetalentofoneofthelastauthenticcouturiers,whohasnoneedofsuchartifice 11 ©Ungaro Provocation(IV) ExtractfromSisleycampaigns,photographedbyTerryRichardson,wheretheeroticandponentisintendedtopromoteabrandidentitywhosevaluesaresupposedlylinkedtovirtualtravelandsometimesbrutal“pulp”lifestyles.Theproductsattempttobeinphasewiththemostavant-gardefashiontrends. 18)Sisleycampaign2002:Baroque 19)Sisleycampaign2001:Farming 12 ©Sisley ©Sisley Provocation(V) 20)Sisleycampaign2000:Manhattan21)Sisleycampaign2000:PalmSprings 13 ©Sisley ©Sisley ©tonOlivieroToscani ©tonOlivieroToscani Provocation(VI) ThecontroversialtoncampaignsphotographedbyOlivieroToscani.22)toncampaign1992,HIV(DavidKirby) 23)toncampaign1996,Hearts 24)toncampaign1994,Bosniansoldier 25)toncampaign1993,HIVfrontal 14 ©tonOlivieroToscani ©tonOlivieroToscani ©ton.Photo:OlivieroToscani Provocation(VII) 26)toncampaign:apriestandnunkissing 27)toncampaignSpring2003,“Foodforlife”photographedbyJamesMollison,whocontinuesthe“ethical”lineinstitutedbyhispredecessorOlivieroToscani 15 ©ton.Photo:JamesMollison Profaningthesacred 28)Powerisuselesswithoutcontrol:thefamousPirelliadshowingerstarRonaldowearinganInterMilanjerseyandoverlookingGuanabaraBay,inimitationoftheposeoftheChristofCorcovadostatueinRiodeJaniero 16 ©Pirelli Commercializingvaluesofsolidarity ©hCole 29)hColecontinuesthemoralizingannouncementsonwhichhehasbasedhiscampaigns.Here,thebranddeclares,“OnSeptember12(2001),peoplewhodon’ttalktotheirparentsotwhy” ©hCole©Fortuna 30)hColeDecember1999campaign,ontheWorldwideDayAgainstAIDS 31)TheFortunacigarettebrandannounces,“Helpingdoesn’tcostsomuch”anddonates0.7%ofthepurchasepricetocharities 17 Afewgoodads 32)“Nofemalebodywasexploitedinmakingthisadvertisement”Eramtreatsacurrentthemewithhumorandoriginalitywhilestillspotlightingtheproduct 18 ©Eram Afewgoodads(II) 33)Lightware:againhumorandwittoaddressprevailingconsumerconcerns 19 ©Lightware Afewgoodads(III) "Iinheritedmyloveformotorcyclesfrommyfather. RidingmyDucatimakesmefeelclosertohim." DucatiPeople.ElisaPintarla,Student,21,Finland*DucatiMonster620dark,i.e.electronicfuelinjection.,60HP,newframeandsuspensionDucatiPerformanceApparelandessories‘PureDucatiLady’jacket,atDucatiDealersandStores. 34)“Ducatipeople2002”campaignwhichshowsauthentic“Ducatisti,”highlightingtheemotionalnatureofthelinkbetweenconsumersandthemythicalbrand 20 ©Ducati Afewgoodads(IV) 35)Superbhandlingofmodernityandtradition,withestheticsensibility.RosemaryBravo,BurberryCEO,resolvestheeternaldilemmaofluxurybrands 21 ©Burberry Managingabrand’sesthetic Twoexamplesofchangingalogointhebankingsector Old New36)BancoSabadelllogos Old NewCréditduNord 37)CréditduNordlogos 22 Managingabrand’sesthetic(II) AfewlogosofSwissbrands,allinredandwhite.TherearemanyotherSwissbrandsthatusetheirnationalcolors. 38)WhiteonredsquareforBally… 39)andthesameforSwissInternationalAirLines,bothexpressingtheirSwissnationality 40)Mondaine 41)Tissot 42)Swatch Threeexamplesofwatchbrandsusingthewhitecrossonaredbackground,afrequentpracticeinmanySwisseconomicsectors 23 Managingabrand’sesthetic(III) OURSWISSNESSThenewairlinehasapowerfulbrandheritagethatwillpropelitforward.ThepastessandstatusofthelegendstemfromitsSwissoriginanditisthisdedicationto“Swissness”thatwilldefinethefuture.ThereareanumberofmontoSwissInternationalAirLinesandCrossairwhichmirrorthevaluesofSwitzerland:quality,prestige,traditionincare,service,efficiency,security,reliability,cleanlinessandSwissheritage.Universallyeptedandwell-respected,theseSwissvalueswillbecovetedbyconsumerslookingforasuperiortravelexperience. 43)Extractfrom“Ashortstoryaboutcivilizedaviation,”developedbythenewSwissInternationalAirLinestopromoteandexplainitsnewidentity 24 ©Ducados,MariaEspeus Managingabrand’sesthetic(IV) classicalandbaroqueesthetics 44)AdvertisementforSpanishDucadoscigarettes,withaclassicalpagelayoutandabaroquephoto,using“clair-obscur”lightingtechniquesandframingtosuggesttheatmosphereofthetangobarsofCubaandBuenosAires45)AnotherbaroqueadvertisementforDucados46)Versace’sfamousbaroquecushion 25 ©Versace©Ducados,MariaEspeus ©Guess?
Inc.,creativedirectorPaulMarciano,photographerTonyDuran Managingabrand’sesthetic(V) classicalandbaroqueesthetics(II) 47)SuperbbaroquephotofortheAmericanbrandGuess 26 ©Chanel Managingabrand’sesthetic(VI) classicalandbaroqueesthetics(III) 48)Chanel’sbaroquephotographforthemostclassicalperfumebottle 27 ©SalvatoreFerragamo Managingabrand’sesthetic(VII) classicalandbaroqueesthetics(IV) 49)AtypicalclassicalphotographforFerragamo’sSpring2003campaign:whitebackgroundandincrediblycleardetailsofthestitchingandoftheleatherontheirproprietorywedgeheel 28 Managingabrand’sesthetic(VIII) classicalandbaroqueesthetics(V) 50)ClassicalFerragamoshoeswiththebaroquelabelcreatedbythefounderSalvatore 51)ClassicalChanelphotographyforanotherclassicalbottle 52)Lancel’sformerclassicallogo 29 ©Chanel ©SalvatoreFerragamo ©Lancel ©Lycra Managingabrand’sesthetic(IX) classicalandbaroqueesthetics(VI) 53)AfineclassicalphotoforLycra,oneoftherarefabricbrandsthataddressesconsumersdirectly 30 Exampleofdiversification 54)Pirelliisknownprimarilyforitstires,thoughitisactiveinmanyotherindustrialareas,suchasfiberoptics.panycreatedanewbrand,“Pzero”,whichusesthecalligraphyofitsfamous“
P,”andinthecaseoftheshoes,atire-treaddesignonthesyntheticsoles.Ifyoucanputtiresoncars,whynotshoesonfeet?
31 ©Pirelli ©BMW©Volkswagen Restylingintheautomotiveindustry 55)TheVolkswagenBeetle’sstylisticevolutionfrom1955to1998 56)OldandnewMiniCooperfromMorris Straightforwardexpressionoftheethicalvaluesunderlyingthebrandidentity 57)Noneedforasophisticatedsemioticanalysistoperceiveandunderstandtheethicalvaluesexpressedbythea-Colabrand 32 ©a-Cola